DAY 5: KAGI TO MENARI

Saturday 10 October

The day began with a quiet walk through the village, past the local church and out towards the airfield. The morning was still, and the group used this relatively gentle opening to settle into the day before the track became considerably more demanding.

Beyond the airfield, the trekkers reached the beginning of the steepest descent of the entire trek. What followed was a solid 60-minute drop down the mountainside towards the creek crossing. The descent was hard on the legs, with the uneven, track requiring constant concentration. It was an hot day, 39 degrees and the track was dusty. Each step had to be placed carefully, as the steep slope made it difficult to maintain balance. By the time the group reached the creek, everyone was ready for a short pause.

At the crossing, the trekkers took the opportunity to refill their water bottles and prepare for the next section. There was little time to relax, however, as the track immediately turned upwards. The following 10-minute climb was short but extremely sharp, burning through tired calves and quickly raising everyone’s heart rate. Reaching the top brought a welcome sense of achievement. From there, the trail became more manageable, with a gentler 30-minute section allowing the group to regain its rhythm before stopping for a well-earned rest.

After the break, the trekkers continued for another 15 minutes towards Efogi, perched high on the hillside. The position of the village provided magnificent views across the surrounding valleys and forested ridges. At Efogi, the group paused for morning tea and took time to admire the sweeping scenery. Far below, Efogi Village could be seen in the valley, surrounded by the dense green landscape that characterises this remote part of the Kokoda Track.

The group then began the descent into Efogi Village. The walk down offered constantly changing views, with the village gradually becoming clearer as the trekkers made their way towards it. Once in the village, they visited the local museum, where they learned more about the area’s history, culture and connection to the Kokoda campaign. A visit to the local market provided another opportunity to meet members of the community and experience the warmth and hospitality of the villagers.

Leaving Efogi, the group began the long and demanding ascent of Brigade Hill via Mission Ridge. This was one of the most physically and emotionally significant sections of the day. The climb was relentless in places, testing already tired legs and requiring the trekkers to dig deep. The track rose steadily through the forest, with each step carrying the group closer to a location of great importance in the history of the Kokoda campaign.

At Mission Ridge, the group paused to rest and reflect. The ridge provided an opportunity to consider the events that took place in this area and the extraordinary conditions faced by the Australian troops during the campaign. The surrounding jungle, steep slopes and isolation made it easier to appreciate the immense physical and psychological demands placed upon the soldiers who fought here.

From Mission Ridge, it was another 15 minutes to the summit of Brigade Hill. Although the final section was relatively short, it was a difficult climb after the long descent, creek crossing and ascent earlier in the day. Reaching the summit was therefore a significant achievement for everyone.

At Brigade Hill, the group held an emotional ceremony in honour of the soldiers who fought in the area and in remembrance of their courage, endurance and sacrifice. The ceremony was a deeply moving moment, made even more powerful by the quietness of the surroundings. Standing together on the hill, the trekkers reflected on the young men who had endured battle, exhaustion, hunger and fear in the same rugged environment. The ceremony gave everyone time to pause and acknowledge the historical importance of the ground beneath their feet.

After the ceremony, the group had lunch on Brigade Hill. The food was particularly welcome after the morning’s demanding trek and provided an opportunity to rest, rehydrate and regain some energy before continuing. Once lunch was finished, packs were shouldered again and the group returned to the track.

The afternoon began with a long descent towards Menari Waterfall. The downhill section was hard on tired knees and required careful footing, particularly where the track was wet or uneven. As the sound of running water grew louder, the trekkers knew they were approaching the waterfall. Menari Waterfall provided a refreshing place to stop, rest and take in the beauty of the surrounding forest. The cool water and shaded setting were especially welcome after the effort of the day.

From the waterfall, the group faced another 30-minute climb into Menari Village. Although the distance was not great, the ascent felt demanding after so many hours on the track. Everyone was tired, and some trekkers were beginning to feel the cumulative effects of the previous days—sore knees, aching feet and heavy legs. Nevertheless, the group continued to encourage one another and made steady progress up the hill.

Menari holds an important place in the story of the Kokoda campaign. It was here that the brave men of the 39th Battalion were withdrawn from the campaign before the Battle of Brigade Hill. After weeks of intense fighting, difficult withdrawals and relentless physical hardship, the remaining soldiers were exhausted and close to complete collapse. These men became known as the “Ragged Bloody Heroes,” a name that reflected both their battered condition and their extraordinary courage. Despite their exhaustion, they struggled back towards Port Moresby before later returning to fight at Buna and Gona.

Arriving at Menari at 5pm gave the group another opportunity to reflect on the men who had passed through this same country under conditions far more difficult than those faced by the trekkers today. The history of the track continues to make every climb, descent and river crossing more meaningful.

The group arrived in camp a little tired, but the trekkers are doing remarkably well after another long and challenging day. The group is now preparing for dinner, with several people already planning an early night so they can recover before tomorrow’s journey.

It has been a day of steep descents, demanding climbs, magnificent views and powerful historical experiences. Despite the physical exhaustion, the group remains in good spirits, supporting one another and continuing to make excellent progress along the Kokoda Track.